The History of Portuguese Filigree

The origin of filigree dates back to the third millennium BC, in Mesopotamia. The oldest pieces date back to 2500 BC and were discovered in the tombs of UR, in present-day Iraq. In Syria, some pieces have also been discovered that date back to approximately 2100 BC.

This art reached Europe through the Greek and Roman civilizations. In fact, the word "filigree" originated during the Roman Empire! It continued its journey through the Middle East, crossing borders from India to China. It is true that filigree took on different patterns and activities during these times. During the Roman rule, filigree began to appear in the Iberian Peninsula. Initially, it was little developed, but with the arrival of the Arab peoples this technique began to gain strength and visibility, particularly in Portugal.

Portuguese filigree is undoubtedly a cultural identity of the people, customs and typically Portuguese tradition. Filigree is entirely handmade and demands the highest degree of patience, imagination, skill and meticulousness from goldsmiths and artisans. All this is also associated with the high creative power and artistic sensitivity of these artisans.

Specifically, filigree is the art of working gold and silver using delicate threads made from these materials, which, when finely intertwined, end up forming elaborate pieces and varied designs. There are two types of filigree: application filigree, used for decoration, and integration filigree, which constructs the object itself solely in filigree. The threads are twisted, beaten and heated to become soft and thin so that they can then be worked by the artisans.

Portuguese filigree mainly represents nature, religion and love:

• the sea is represented with fish, shells, waves and boats;
• nature is the inspiration for flowers, clovers and wreaths;
• with religious motifs, we find crosses, such as the Maltese cross, and reliquaries. More recently, medals with saints, angels and religious figures;
• love, without a doubt, is the inspiration of all filigree hearts.

Other iconic symbols of our filigree usually have a historical origin, with great refinement and remarkable simplicity, such as the famous:

• The Minho Heart or Viana Heart, as it is also known, represents the dedication and worship of the Sacred Heart of Jesus at the end of the 18th century. It has become an iconic piece of Portuguese heritage and Portuguese filigree art, and is recognised worldwide. The city of Viana lends its name to the piece, which has become, over the years, an almost indispensable element in the Pilgrimages of Our Lady of Agony, worn on necklaces around the chest;

• the earrings worn by the queen, which represent wealth and status. The name "queen" originated in the reign of D. Maria II (1819-1853) who wore a pair of earrings on a visit to Viana do Castelo in 1852. Some say that it is also a symbol of female fertility, as it is possible to see a very faint image of the connection of a child in the mother's womb;

• The Castro earrings or Bambolina hoops began as earrings for the poorest population, but the more privileged classes later began to imitate them. At their origin were the Castro earrings, inspired by the crescent moon;

• Viana beads are as old as the art of goldsmithing. Viana beads are descended from Greek beads: they are hollow inside, which makes them light, and perfectly spherical. They are distinguished by their filigree-detailed thread and a small dot in the center. These typical necklaces came about because women in their time could not afford to buy a whole necklace. And for this reason, they would buy, depending on their means, bead by bead until they had made a complete thread.

Nowadays, filigree production in Portugal is concentrated mainly in the north of the country, namely in the districts of Gondomar and Póvoa do Lanhoso. In Minho, filigree continues to be associated with a long tradition: the “Sunday costumes”. The women’s Minho costume, so famous worldwide, is always adorned with various pieces of gold, including very striking necklaces and earrings, which are passed down from generation to generation.